Guides to bouldering and climbing in mid-Wales
OS Ref: 641260 Altitude:250 metres Approach time:15 minutes Aspect:North west Drying:Reasonably quick drying Winter sun: No Summer sun: Yes, late afternoon onwards Rock type: Rhinog Gritstone A selection of low lying, small scattered buttresses with a very straightforward approach (no wellies needed!) All the routes are slabby in nature and many are solos above sometimes good, sometimes bad... Continue Reading →
OS: 626 272 Access: This lovely slab sits in Cwm Nantcol and is easily accessible. Follow the road up the valley to where a smaller road exits leftwards. Drive up this and park at OS 619270. A short walk along the tracks continuation through an enclosure brings you to the crag. Elevation: 200 meters 1.Tickety-Boo, HVS... Continue Reading →
I'm not George Orwell, just a boulderer about to be videoed on a phone.
Carreg Y Foel Gron: OS 745 427 Upper Tier A good collection of faces ranging from 25m slabs to 12 m leaning cracks and arête. The larger south facing section is visible from the Ffestiniog to Penmachno road. Parking is by LLyn Dubach below the crag. A short stroll brings you to the main slabs. To... Continue Reading →
OS 616156 This old slate quarry is in the town of Barmouth and was explored and developed by a team of climbers in 1980s including John Sumner and John Codling. It was then thought inaccessible for 30 years due to a misconception over land ownership. Now thanks to the efforts of the BMC this has... Continue Reading →
This old granite quarry runs along the hillside to the east of Blaenau high street and is approached by a 2 minute walk across open access land. There are two areas, the central quarried walls reach up to 50 meters high and contain a number of well bolted sport routes. The far right hand non quarried... Continue Reading →
Here are some new routes which have been added since the 2002 guide. Clogwyn yr Oen Red walls This collection of walls and slabs sits on the hillside between Clogwyn yr oen and Bustach and is characterised by compact red rock.There are two good routes here which start below the red slab just left of... Continue Reading →
OS ref 749 447 This long and impressive escarpment sits on the moors above Ffestiniog on the Penmachno road above three small lakes. Although one and half kilomatres long, it has rarely been visited by climbers over the years. In the 1980s Mel Griffiths and Martin Crook did a brief inspection and soloed some of... Continue Reading →
OS REF: 614304 Approach: Leave Llanfair village at sign “ Cwm Bychan 6 miles." At 1.7 miles there is a right turn signed Cwm Bychan. At 0.8 miles there is a gap in the wall on the right and a track leading down to the Fridd farm. Park by the house then walk though the... Continue Reading →
OS: SH 676214 A long escarpment facing south west on the slopes of Clogau above the village of Bontddu on the Mawddach. Good quality high friction rock in an ideal (quiet!) setting. Approach: From Dolgellau take the Barmouth road to Bontddu. At the old hotel turn right and take the steep road up the... Continue Reading →
Mid-Wales Climbing 