Here are some new routes which have been added since the 2002 guide.
Clogwyn yr Oen
This collection of walls and slabs sits on the hillside between Clogwyn yr oen and Bustach and is characterised by compact red rock.There are two good routes here which start below the red slab just left of the gulley.
Sleep Dancer, E3 5c, 30 metres, 4.2.2007
Varied climbing with a great final headwall. Start by taking the deep crack at the left of the slab, pass a block and pull up rightwards onto the left side of the slab which leads to a sloping ledge . At the back of the ledge is a short steep wall which leads to a wedged block .Climb up to step on the block then step left to the final headwall. Good, committing moves lead up to a horizontal break which trends leftwards.Once the break widens leave it to pull directly up onto the pocketed wall above . Run it out a bit on improving pockets to a sudden easing of the angle and the top of the final slab. A few metres up is a good belay bay.
Giant mouse eats Oakleys, E4 5c, 20 metres, 27.8.2006
This takes the excellent edge above the right side of the slab. Start at the right toe of the slab and make thin moves on high friction rock to the sloping ledge below the edge. Small pockets in the wall left of the edge take Tricams or hexes. Commit to the edge and follow it directly on improving holds which continue to the top of the edge. Scramble up the heathery steps above to the belay bay. Walk off leftwards for the descent.
This neat 12 metre slabby wall faces south and is seen as you follow the path up to cwm orthin where it runs below upper wrysgan. The wall sits on the north side of the big bay below upper wrysgan.Beautiful rock
Taking the Elf for a Ride, HVS 5a, 12 metres, 20.5.2004
From the bottom centre of the slab go direct up the blind seam to the horizontal break just below the top. Pull directly over .
T Taylor, E Jones.
Below the Stwlan Dam Road
Lower Wrysgan – Y- Borfa, known locally as Clogwyn-y-Ci (Cliff of the Dog)
Canine Dementia, 42 Mtr VS 5a
Start at the base of the buttress behind a Hawthorn tree below a prominent short L facing corner groove
1st Pitch 30 mtr VS 5a.
Climb the wall and corner, move R to the arÍte and continue up to slab and a short overhanging off width crack with chockstone runner, climb it (watch its bite) and up slabs to blocks, move R and back L up to belay on blocks higher.
2nd Pitch 12 mtr Sever 4b.
Move R and ascend the delightfully exposed Arete
10 Mtr Wall
At the 5th Passing Passing Place, Dim Pasio, (from the gate at the start of the Stwlan Dam Road) below the west end of the Pinacl
The 10mtr Wall is on the second level 75 mtr below this road and is easily identified by its chair like depression at the top of the crag. A delightful little buttress
Descend down L then back R to its base from the top
Routes are described from L to R (small camís and wireís useful)Sheperdís Vacation E1 5c
Climb short crack and wall above without recourse to the L AreteEddieís Dilemma VS 4c The vertical crack line
Sheperdís Rollerís, HVS 5a
Wall between Eddieís Dilemma and Roger Rang starting at a small quartz pocket
Roger Rang VS 4b The L leaning crack line
Timís Hello E1 5b start just R of Roger Rang and finish on the L side of the small prow
Sheperdís Crook, HS 4b
Climb the R Arete
Carreg Keith has a SE facing slabby wall and a steep S face with an obvious crack line separated by a small gully stream, it is reached by traversing R (Looking out) from 10 Mtr Wall for a few minutes.
Patience, 15 Mtr, VS 4b
Start at the lowest part of slab beneath a small R curving roof, (Part of the large obvious leaning flake) climb via corner crack to top of the flake move up L then directly the upper slab finishing between 2 short cracks.
Dancing on Crystals, 20 Mtr, E2 5b
Start just L of Patience move up and gain the lowest of the 3 diagonally leftward lines of the flake, hand traverse this past Mary Thomas to near its end, stand on the flake, move up then dance across an exposed traverse line to a foothold at the bottom of a short crack almost on the L Arete, climb this to the top.
Mary Thomas, 15 Mtr, E2 5c
Gain the Arete L of Dancing, make bold moves up and R (Zero2 placement in small horizontal slot) to reach the traverse line of Dancing, move L then ascend the upper slab direct.
A Meeting with Dafydd, 15Mtr, VS 4c
Climb the obvious corner to the top of the flake, continue direct up the thin crack line
The leaning south face has 4 routes.
Ridiculous Dinky, HVS 5b, 15m, 11.6.2006
At the left of the face is a good niche. Belay at the juntion of the slab and wall below a ledge . Haul up powerfully onto the ledge then pull up rightwards into the niche . Finish by rocking up leftwards at the top of the niche.
Herbie the Jackypoo, E1 5b, 15m, 14.5.2008
A good steep line , demanding yet safe. Start up the groove of Hideous to just below the big flake then hand traverse out left to hang the good ledge . Rock up onto the ledge and follow the good crack up and leftwards to the final niche of Ridiculous Öto finish.
Hideous Kinky, E2 5b, 16m, 11.6.2006
The excellent groove and crack that runs dirct up the overhanging wall . Belay at the foot of the wall on the easy slab. Go direct up the groove past the big flake and continue fighting past good gear to the top.
Beneath Clogwyn Bustach are two walls . The left one is 20 metres and is split by a great rightwards rising crack. The smaller right hand one starts above a grass ledge 10 metres above the stone wall by the roadside. Gain the ledge easily from the left.
Seven tools of the Bandit E2 5c, 12m, 16.5.2004
A thin crack rises up the left side of the wall to a slight ledge . The centre of the wall above has a short crack at its top : linking the two provides the fun.
Karma Armour, E1 5b, 12 metres,1.5.2004
The next crack to the right is fingery fun to the small ledge . Take the wider crack above with less fuss.
Bear trappers hat, E1 5b, 12 metres, 1.5.2004
The fine wall right of the crack. Good edges lead up to a short horizontal slot . Nice balanced moves lead directly up.
The larger and much more impressive wall up and left has the obvious slanting crack rising from bottom left :
The left wing
Delirious Severe, 20 m, 16.5.2004
The left wing of the face has a steep slab with a slim right facing groove up its centre . Enter the groove and at its top take the ramp leftwards for 2 m until its possible to pull direct through the headwall to a good ledge . Easier climbing leads to the summit.
Next right is the foot of the diagonal.
Indelnibble, E1 5b, 20m, 6.6.2004
Start at the toe of the diagonal and follow the line onto a ledge at 3 m. Make very committing moves out left onto the bulging wall with good but small and hidden holds . Continue directly up to the vertical crack which leads directly and steadily to the top.
Millís Diagonal, E1 5b, 24 m, 13.6.2004
A superb route taking the most obvious feature of the face . Gain the ledge at 3 m then follow the wide crack directly up. As it curves rightwards the climbing gets even more interesting with a big feel as the route rises above the steep face below. When the line turns back towards the vertical an easy finish comes within sight. Well protected.
The open face to right has three very good routes . The large ledge below the face is approached from the left for the first two routes .Belay on the ground.
Millsipede, E2 5c, 20 metres, 13.6.2004
The first thin vertical crack on the left side of the face has a short intense microwire protected section before reaching the much wider vertical crack above. Continue direct though the diagonal to follow the vertical crack to its natural end in the short headwall .
Battle of Mills, E3 5c, 20m, 13.6.2004
A good bold line up the face 3 metres to the right. Start at the left side of the lower wall and step up rightwards to gain the large ledge below the face. A series of good edges leads up and rightwards to a small prominent ledge 4 metres above the big ledge. Good wire. Very exciting moves then lead back out leftwards on small finger edges heading for the thin crack . Gain this with relief and more good pro. The thin crack runs up to a niche. Pullup and left out of this to enter the diagonal. Follow this to the top.
Gaia Power, E2 5b, 20 metres, 16.5.2004
The third good line which takes in the deep flake crack running along the top of the face. Start at the right edge of the ledge and pull up onto it. Then go direct up the face to reach the deep horizontal flake crack which is unbelievably good as you layback up and leftwards along the natural line. The flake layaway then turns vertical. Follow it to its end and step out right into the face to finish straight up.
The right wing has a prominent roof then a wide open groove with a crack in the back.
Right Wing, Hard Severe 4b, 18 metres, 6.6.2004
Reach the crack via a ramp: the gear and the moves above are plentiful and lead peacefully up and leftwards to an ever easing finish at the boulder perched on the summit.
Holland —lower right hand
There is a large flat landscaped area at the back of Tan y grisiau with a line of conifers, behind which is a prominent white wall.This is the last piece of exposed rock before the huge tip on the hillside.
All in a Good Cause : HVS 5a, 12 meters, 25.6.2004
The left side of the good wall with long reaches between horizontal seams continues direct to an easy finish onto the heather ledge . The short wall above leads to the belay.
Lost Cause HVS 5a, 12 meters, 25.6.2004
The right side of the wall just left of the black lichen is also followed direct via ever diminishing gear placements to a small flake from which the top is reached.
Beside the road running through Tan y Grisiau is a long buttress of layered shaley rock. Cross the railway line by the footbridge and walk the few minutes to the crag . At present only one route exists but there is scope for more .Although layered and broken in places but has a good clean face on its right end .
Kingdoms of Elfdom, E2 5c,15 meters, 26.6.2004
The excellent open groove below the oak sapling is followed steeply to the ledge :traverse out leftwards until below a thin discontinuous crack in the wall above . Ever harder moves lead heavenwards before pulling up and left at the top.
T Taylor unseconded.
Cwm Teigl, Bryn Castell
This tower and slab sit on the right hillside at the entrance to Cwm Teigl and are easily approached form the road via the waterworks building on the road up to the Migneint. The slab has 3 cracks which have been cleaned although we only have details of the left hand crack.
Poked in the face, V.Diff, 20 metres, 21.5.2007
The clean cut crack in the left side of the slab can be entered directly and steeply. Continue direct up the easing crack to some large blocks up on the right to top out.
The tall tower on the left has a good crack running up its centre:
Sky session, E2 5b, 20 metres, 21.5.2007
Take the wide crack directly to the fork . Step up and handtraverse the right ramp to the foot of the vertical crack in the right side of the headwall. Gaining and entering the crack is the trick . Follow it more easily to its top.
Merlin, E3 5c, 20 metres, 21.5.2007
The excellent arete leading to the headwall. Start from the boulder down and left of the undercut arete. Pull up and pull immediately right to a good stance.Continue up the arÍte which although unprotected is festooned with finger jugs. Once at the headwall step left to the foot of the final crack . This is very steep and provides a fighting finish to the ledge. Pull up leftwards on good holds.
Carreg y Foel Gron
The wall and slab to the right of the big easy angled slab.
Moonrock, E1 5a, 24metres, 11.7.2007
Take the centre of the compact wall via good edges to the ledge . Follow the centre of the slab above to finish up the nose direct.
Bedrock E1 5b, 22 metres, 11.7.2007
Next right is a short, wide chimney. Start up the steep pocketed wall 2 metres right of this and continue directly and boldly to the left edge of the large perched flake. Follow this more easily to the ever easing slab.
Martins Edge, E4 5c, 22metres, 11.7.2007
The right edge of this section is bold and technical in its lower third .
Rock for brains, E2 5c, 15 metres, 11.7.2007
The slim wall forming the left edge of Sickle. Go direct up the centre of the wall to where it steepens below a small sloping shelf. Gaining and passing the shelf on its left side brings good holds on the top within reach. Pull up onto the top of the highest grass ledge.