Clogwyn Spot, Craig Ysgor y Gwyn: Guide to Traditional Routes

A good, steep and isolated buttress sits on the northern banks of the gorge of Ysgor y Gwyn, where the gorge enters the forest above the car park of Cwm Bychan. The straight forward approach from the car park is across the field below the Cwm Bychan farmhouse by the car park. Cross the wooden bridge in the field and pass through a broad wooden gate into the oak forest. Step over a very low fence then pass through a gap in the stonewall. Continue up the gorge to the crag which sits up and left.

 The first feature is a bay facing the car park. To the right is a right facing corner, and right again is a compact, leaning face. 

1.Bare-assed Bay, 18 meters, Very Severe 5a, 9.7.2002

This is the west facing bay at the left of the crag. Stroll directly up into the bay then face the challenge of the centre of the wall. Above the wall cracks up and right lead with some more difficulty to the top. T. Taylor, D. Owen

 

2.***The Rush   20m, E5 6a, 13.7.2002

The right-facing corner above the well-jammed flake leans a lot more than first appearances suggest. Start on a good platform below and left of the flake. Stepping on the flake is the next problem then the corner starts, microcams to a blade peg (!) before pulling dramatically out left to a good jug. Power straight up above this (cam 2 and 3) before rocking up right (crux ) to excellent layaways. Finish directly more easily. T.Taylor  

3.**Too Much of a Rush, 20m, E5 6b, 31.5.05

A brilliant route with inventive moves on the leaning face right of The Rush. Pull straight up above the left end of a short ramp and mantel onto a narrow ledge. With protection from RPs and a poor peg, layback the sharp edge on the right to a break. Enter the hanging corner on the left (vital Rock 3) and ‘get funky’. Finish up bulging rock overhead. M.Crocker , unseconded

4.*Put the Breaks On, 20m, E5 6a, 30.5.2005

Photogenically ideal: the slim corner in the right-hand arête of the face. Take a short corner to ledges. Move up into the corner – placement-specific wires. Stretch for a break, and then pull left to oak trees and easy ground. M.Crocker, unseconded

The next two routes take the slim white pillar 15 metres up and right of the main face.

5.*Jamming with Ben,15m, E1 5b, 31.5.05

A good steep climb. Start at a purple-stained slab and corner left of the white pillar. Climb the slab and take the trickier-than-it-looks crack to the top. M.Crocker, unseconded

 6.Brother Rico, 15m E3 5c, 31.5.05

Climb a scruffy corner onto the left-hand end of a heather ledge. Follow the finger-crack above to its close; then precariously bridge left onto a good foothold on the white pillar. A tentative move gains good finishing holds. M.Crocker , unseconded

Still on the northern banks of the gorge there is a smaller white wall further east.

7.Bareback Ride, 8m, Hard Severe 4b, 13.7.2002

Just left of the centre of this white wall is a good crack with an easy start and a hard finish. T.Taylor, D. Owen.

8.Us Animal Extremes, 8 meters, E2 6a, 13.7.2002

The centre of the wall is steep and well protected with a hard sequence to top out on good, clean, sloping rock. T.Taylor