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The View from Planet Gest, Martin Crook
“A great experience awaited us and one which forever set at rest any doubt which we could have had as to the wonders so near us” Conan Doyle, The Lost World Around half past two on a late August afternoon, Mel Griffiths and I having brewed up outside Erics café generally dismissing roped climbing activity... Continue Reading →
Barmouth Quarry: Guide to Sports Routes
OS 616156 This old slate quarry is in the town of Barmouth and was explored and developed by a team of climbers in 1980s including John Sumner and John Codling. It was then thought inaccessible for 30 years due to a misconception over land ownership. Now thanks to the efforts of the BMC this has... Continue Reading →
Chwarel Manod, Ffestiniog: Guide to Sports Routes
This old granite quarry runs along the hillside to the east of Blaenau high street and is approached by a 2 minute walk across open access land. There are two areas, the central quarried walls reach up to 50 meters high and contain a number of well bolted sport routes. The far right hand non quarried... Continue Reading →
New sport venue in Blaenau: Badychain
Badychain is the wall visible from Tan y Grisiau main street which faces south across the railway line. A short walk through a tunnel below the track drops you at the foot of the wall where there are now approx 30 sport routes ( several of which are still projects)
First Ascent, The Dawn Arete, Tanygrisiau: Video
Check out this video of Mike Allday making the first ascent of the Dawn Arete in Tanygrisiau.
Moel y Gest Quarry, Tremadog: Guide to Sports Routes
19 routes Mephistopheles, 7a The first bolted line in the main quarry on the white wall capped by a big ledge. Very steep with a tricky section in the blind groove. TT, 2010 Persephone, 6b+ The technical groove next right sharing the LO has some fine moves between good rests with a distinctly long reach for... Continue Reading →
Allen’s Sunbeach, Llwyngwril: Guide to Sports Routes
Also known as Allens’s Sunbeach this is the large caravan park just south of LLwyngwril with a long pebble beach leading to a small sea cliff 400 metres south of the park. Access by parking on the beach but be aware the gates lock at 6pm . If staying later park just outside the... Continue Reading →
Pennal Quarry: Guide to Sports Routes
Pennal Quarry (banned at present but Elfyn Jones has been in touch with the farmer) From right to left as you enter the quarry: Van Diemans Land (6c, 12.11.2008) The steep thin wall with technical climbing. TT JD Reflexological (7a+, 20.11.2008) The left edge of this wall is very sustained with a difficult sequence at halfway. TT The... Continue Reading →
Craig Ddu, Moel Siabod: Guide to Traditional Routes
Moel Siabod Craig Ddu Reference: 698539 New routes Craig ddu has three distinct sections, the left or south crag with easy slabs on its extreme left side and a wide grassy gully bounding its right northern end . The central section has the massive upper wall with the great leaning ( unclimbed ) prow in... Continue Reading →
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