July 2019 Pete Robbins finally links all of the traverses on the Bryn Dyfrgi, starting on the extreme left and continuing the full length of the wall to reach the 7b Martin Crocker route on the extreme right up which Pete climbed before pulling right to the large pocket and topping out on the pedestal.... Continue Reading →
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Bird Rock (Craig Aderyn) New Traditional Line
Bird Rock ( Craig aderyn )is in the Dysynni valley by Tywyn, south Meirionnydd This new addition is to the right of the Bastion: American Girl E3 6a 21.7.12 15m. Scrabble around or climb the dark overhung wall to belay at the large grass ledge below the short steep wall. 20m. Begin at the base... Continue Reading →
When cliffs below 100ft high were considered boulder problems – a letter from Edward Birch
Sept 1968, I think it was. We were staying at Baudy Mawr (Rucksack Club hut) in the Pass, and the weather being bad, we opted for the Moelwyns. Our intention was to have a go at Space Beneath My Feet. On arrival at the foot of the route I found it to be streaming with... Continue Reading →
Cyfrwy Cadair Idris, New Route
Bipolar Complexity HVS 5a 92 metres This runs up the slab and overhangs to the left of Hyrib on the north face of Cadair. 40m. Start 2m left of the groove of pitch 1 of Hyrib. Ascended the slab via cracks directly to the overhangs at 20m surmount these via a corner capped... Continue Reading →
The View from Planet Gest, Martin Crook
“A great experience awaited us and one which forever set at rest any doubt which we could have had as to the wonders so near us” Conan Doyle, The Lost World Around half past two on a late August afternoon, Mel Griffiths and I having brewed up outside Erics café generally dismissing roped climbing activity... Continue Reading →
Gist Ddu, Martin Crook
Martin and the gang receive some unexpected help on their quest!
The Hurt Locker and The Replicant, Martin Crook
Sometimes, bouldering can quite literally almost blow you away...
Welcome to the Lledr Dome, Martin Crook
Somewhere between Akinari Vedas tales of a pale mysterious moon after rain, and Von Ryans express lies the Lledr. That is not literally so hardly matters. Miss the train from Roman Bridge to Llandudno Junction on a misty November night and, well, tell me about it! Maybe your car’s parked in Dolwyddelan, so walk... Continue Reading →
Clogwyn Spot, Craig Ysgor y Gwyn: Guide to Traditional Routes
A good, steep and isolated buttress sits on the northern banks of the gorge of Ysgor y Gwyn, where the gorge enters the forest above the car park of Cwm Bychan. The straight forward approach from the car park is across the field below the Cwm Bychan farmhouse by the car park. Cross the wooden... Continue Reading →
The Roman Steps, Rhinog Fawr: Guide to Traditional Routes
OS reference: 660 294 These are the tiers rising up the hillside to the south of the Roman Steps and are easily approached from the east. Once through the forest and onto the moorland track the tiers can be seen on the left. Many are well documented in the 2002 guide but there have been... Continue Reading →