At the south western end of the Arennig complex this domed mountain is littered with many small walls and boulders and gives a good day out just exploring with a mat.
Rhobell Fawr, Trad climbing
Composed of a wide spread of small walls and edges the rock is the usual high friction good quality Rhobell type, the aspect south and the view magnificent. The far west wall commands a fabulous view down across the Mawddach.
Bird Rock (Craig Aderyn) New Traditional Line
Bird Rock ( Craig aderyn )is in the Dysynni valley by Tywyn, south Meirionnydd This new addition is to the right of the Bastion: American Girl E3 6a 21.7.12 15m. Scrabble around or climb the dark overhung wall to belay at the large grass ledge below the short steep wall. 20m. Begin at the base... Continue Reading →
When cliffs below 100ft high were considered boulder problems – a letter from Edward Birch
Sept 1968, I think it was. We were staying at Baudy Mawr (Rucksack Club hut) in the Pass, and the weather being bad, we opted for the Moelwyns. Our intention was to have a go at Space Beneath My Feet. On arrival at the foot of the route I found it to be streaming with... Continue Reading →
Cyfrwy Cadair Idris, New Route
Bipolar Complexity HVS 5a 92 metres This runs up the slab and overhangs to the left of Hyrib on the north face of Cadair. 40m. Start 2m left of the groove of pitch 1 of Hyrib. Ascended the slab via cracks directly to the overhangs at 20m surmount these via a corner capped... Continue Reading →
Clogwyn Spot, Craig Ysgor y Gwyn: Guide to Traditional Routes
A good, steep and isolated buttress sits on the northern banks of the gorge of Ysgor y Gwyn, where the gorge enters the forest above the car park of Cwm Bychan. The straight forward approach from the car park is across the field below the Cwm Bychan farmhouse by the car park. Cross the wooden... Continue Reading →
The Roman Steps, Rhinog Fawr: Guide to Traditional Routes
OS reference: 660 294 These are the tiers rising up the hillside to the south of the Roman Steps and are easily approached from the east. Once through the forest and onto the moorland track the tiers can be seen on the left. Many are well documented in the 2002 guide but there have been... Continue Reading →
Graig Isa, Cwm Nantcol: Guide to Traditional Routes
OS Ref: 641260 Altitude:250 metres Approach time:15 minutes Aspect:North west Drying:Reasonably quick drying Winter sun: No Summer sun: Yes, late afternoon onwards Rock type: Rhinog Gritstone A selection of low lying, small scattered buttresses with a very straightforward approach (no wellies needed!) All the routes are slabby in nature and many are solos above sometimes good, sometimes bad... Continue Reading →
Carreg Lwyd, Cwm Nantcol: Guide to Traditional Routes
OS: 626 272 Access: This lovely slab sits in Cwm Nantcol and is easily accessible. Follow the road up the valley to where a smaller road exits leftwards. Drive up this and park at OS 619270. A short walk along the tracks continuation through an enclosure brings you to the crag. Elevation: 200 meters 1.Tickety-Boo, HVS... Continue Reading →
Carreg y Foel Gron, Ffestiniog: Guide to Traditional Routes
Carreg Y Foel Gron: OS 745 427 Upper Tier A good collection of faces ranging from 25m slabs to 12 m leaning cracks and arête. The larger south facing section is visible from the Ffestiniog to Penmachno road. Parking is by LLyn Dubach below the crag. A short stroll brings you to the main slabs. To... Continue Reading →