Carreg Lwyd, Cwm Nantcol: Guide to Traditional Routes

OS: 626 272

Access: This lovely slab sits in Cwm Nantcol and is easily accessible. Follow the road up the valley to where a smaller road exits leftwards. Drive up this and park at OS 619270. A short walk along the tracks continuation through an enclosure brings you to the crag.

Elevation: 200 meters

1.Tickety-Boo, HVS 5a, 16 metres, 19/3/2003

This is at the left hand edge of the crag and starts 5 m right of the descent gulley. Climb a blunt arête to the left of a deep, broken chimney finishing with a delicate step around  above a shallow roof. Good but poor pro.

 J.Kettle,S.Woodhurst

2.*Return of the Fling,  E3 5c, 9/2/2013

Start by the deep vertical crack below the undercut slab and pull up and left . Use a small edge to move up and left again to better holds by the rock scar. Pull directly up and soon big breaks lead directly to the top .

T.Taylor

3.*Slab Solo, E3 5c, 20 metres, 1990

Start just right of the vertical slot below the overlap. Rock up rightwards in to the slim groove. Make thin moves up and left to the slim groove capped by a short overlap. Continue direct through the overlap to an easy finish 

J.Cooper on sight solo 

4.Tricks, Severe,20  metres, 13/6/2000

The steep groove and crack forming the right edge of the slab.

T.Taylor, D.Taylor 

5.Kettle’s Progress, E1 5b, 21 metres, 19/2/3003

Climbs directly up the centre of the slab between Tricks and Del. The difficulties are all at the start At the junction of these routes shuffle rightwards up a small ledge and finish up the centre of the slab.

 J.Kettle, S.Woodhurst

6.Del, Severe,20 metres, 13/6/2000

The open corner crack leading directly upwards 

T.Taylor

7.*High Man Slapper, E4 5c, 23 metres, 13/6/2000

This takes the upper centre of the steep wall next right. Follow Jason’s Corner until at 5 meters a good jug rail leads out left. Then make a delicate and exposed mantle up onto the rail after which finish direct. Protection illusory.

T.Taylor

8.*Jason’s Corner E2 5c, 20 metres, 1990

Take the corner next right to the roof then pull up left into the fine finger crack in the left wall. Follow the crack and make a hard move to pass the roof and gain the top of the huge jammed flake. Finish easily.

J.Cooper

9.Rags to Riches Hard Severe 4b, 20 metres,  19/3/2003

Climb the arête 1 metre right of Jasons Corner to gain the heathery ledge (crux). Trend rightwards up the wall behind to ascend a short hand crack. Continue up a shallow groove to finish on the airy arête.

J.Kettle, S.Woodhurst

20 metres to the right is a good pinnacle with a deep groove at its left:

10.Keeping the Faith, E2 5c, 12 metres, 9/2/2013

Strart just right of the groove below two very thin vertical seams. Gain the jug down and right of the seams then pull directly up. Better holds above.

T.Taylor

11.*Lighthouse Pinnacle Hard Very Difficult, 12 metres,  19/3/2003

Using the large blocks gain the face of the pinnacle and connect the ledges to the top.

S.Woodhurst, J.Kettle