Guides to bouldering and climbing in mid-Wales
A good, steep and isolated buttress sits on the northern banks of the gorge of Ysgor y Gwyn, where the gorge enters the forest above the car park of Cwm Bychan. The straight forward approach from the car park is across the field below the Cwm Bychan farmhouse by the car park. Cross the wooden... Continue Reading →
OS reference: 660 294 These are the tiers rising up the hillside to the south of the Roman Steps and are easily approached from the east. Once through the forest and onto the moorland track the tiers can be seen on the left. Many are well documented in the 2002 guide but there have been... Continue Reading →
OS Ref: 641260 Altitude:250 metres Approach time:15 minutes Aspect:North west Drying:Reasonably quick drying Winter sun: No Summer sun: Yes, late afternoon onwards Rock type: Rhinog Gritstone A selection of low lying, small scattered buttresses with a very straightforward approach (no wellies needed!) All the routes are slabby in nature and many are solos above sometimes good, sometimes bad... Continue Reading →
OS: 626 272 Access: This lovely slab sits in Cwm Nantcol and is easily accessible. Follow the road up the valley to where a smaller road exits leftwards. Drive up this and park at OS 619270. A short walk along the tracks continuation through an enclosure brings you to the crag. Elevation: 200 meters 1.Tickety-Boo, HVS... Continue Reading →
I'm not George Orwell, just a boulderer about to be videoed on a phone.
Carreg Y Foel Gron: OS 745 427 Upper Tier A good collection of faces ranging from 25m slabs to 12 m leaning cracks and arête. The larger south facing section is visible from the Ffestiniog to Penmachno road. Parking is by LLyn Dubach below the crag. A short stroll brings you to the main slabs. To... Continue Reading →
OS 616156 This old slate quarry is in the town of Barmouth and was explored and developed by a team of climbers in 1980s including John Sumner and John Codling. It was then thought inaccessible for 30 years due to a misconception over land ownership. Now thanks to the efforts of the BMC this has... Continue Reading →
This old granite quarry runs along the hillside to the east of Blaenau high street and is approached by a 2 minute walk across open access land. There are two areas, the central quarried walls reach up to 50 meters high and contain a number of well bolted sport routes. The far right hand non quarried... Continue Reading →
Here are some new routes which have been added since the 2002 guide. Clogwyn yr Oen Red walls This collection of walls and slabs sits on the hillside between Clogwyn yr oen and Bustach and is characterised by compact red rock.There are two good routes here which start below the red slab just left of... Continue Reading →
OS ref 749 447 This long and impressive escarpment sits on the moors above Ffestiniog on the Penmachno road above three small lakes. Although one and half kilomatres long, it has rarely been visited by climbers over the years. In the 1980s Mel Griffiths and Martin Crook did a brief inspection and soloed some of... Continue Reading →
Mid-Wales Climbing 