Guides to bouldering and climbing in mid-Wales
OS reference: 660 294 These are the tiers rising up the hillside to the south of the Roman Steps and are easily approached from the east. Once through the forest and onto the moorland track the tiers can be seen on the left. Many are well documented in the 2002 guide but there have been... Continue Reading →
OS Ref: 641260 Altitude:250 metres Approach time:15 minutes Aspect:North west Drying:Reasonably quick drying Winter sun: No Summer sun: Yes, late afternoon onwards Rock type: Rhinog Gritstone A selection of low lying, small scattered buttresses with a very straightforward approach (no wellies needed!) All the routes are slabby in nature and many are solos above sometimes good, sometimes bad... Continue Reading →
OS: 626 272 Access: This lovely slab sits in Cwm Nantcol and is easily accessible. Follow the road up the valley to where a smaller road exits leftwards. Drive up this and park at OS 619270. A short walk along the tracks continuation through an enclosure brings you to the crag. Elevation: 200 meters 1.Tickety-Boo, HVS... Continue Reading →
I'm not George Orwell, just a boulderer about to be videoed on a phone.
Carreg Y Foel Gron: OS 745 427 Upper Tier A good collection of faces ranging from 25m slabs to 12 m leaning cracks and arête. The larger south facing section is visible from the Ffestiniog to Penmachno road. Parking is by LLyn Dubach below the crag. A short stroll brings you to the main slabs. To... Continue Reading →
Here are some new routes which have been added since the 2002 guide. Clogwyn yr Oen Red walls This collection of walls and slabs sits on the hillside between Clogwyn yr oen and Bustach and is characterised by compact red rock.There are two good routes here which start below the red slab just left of... Continue Reading →
OS REF: 614304 Approach: Leave Llanfair village at sign “ Cwm Bychan 6 miles." At 1.7 miles there is a right turn signed Cwm Bychan. At 0.8 miles there is a gap in the wall on the right and a track leading down to the Fridd farm. Park by the house then walk though the... Continue Reading →
OS: SH 676214 A long escarpment facing south west on the slopes of Clogau above the village of Bontddu on the Mawddach. Good quality high friction rock in an ideal (quiet!) setting. Approach: From Dolgellau take the Barmouth road to Bontddu. At the old hotel turn right and take the steep road up the... Continue Reading →
Great little edit of Martin Crook on "Game of Hones" And Tony Loxton on "a Whim and a Prayer" in the same area
The new Central Wales guidebook has just been published and contains all you need to know about this previously undocumented area between Machynlleth and Pembroke. The area has seen extensive development of bouldering, sea cliff climbing, bolted quarry routes and long pitches on remote mountain crags. It is incredibly well researched and documented with a... Continue Reading →
Mid-Wales Climbing 