Guides to bouldering and climbing in mid-Wales
19 routes Mephistopheles, 7a The first bolted line in the main quarry on the white wall capped by a big ledge. Very steep with a tricky section in the blind groove. TT, 2010 Persephone, 6b+ The technical groove next right sharing the LO has some fine moves between good rests with a distinctly long reach for... Continue Reading →
Also known as Allens’s Sunbeach this is the large caravan park just south of LLwyngwril with a long pebble beach leading to a small sea cliff 400 metres south of the park. Access by parking on the beach but be aware the gates lock at 6pm . If staying later park just outside the... Continue Reading →
OS ref: 84923 28203 The Bala stones sit below the hillsdie at Cregiau LLwyn Gwern on the north side of the Bala to Dolgellau road. The nearest village is Llanuwchlyn. The crag above the boulders is easily spotted from the road and host a number of good routes up to E4. The large boulders can... Continue Reading →
Within a minute, I developed hiraeth for this top dollar excursion, a kind of pump at first sight, which would not, by any stretch Armstrong of the imagination, be easily won.
After some consideration and discussion with local climbers bolting of new routes began in the summer of 2009 at Llwyngwril Allens Sunbeach. The cliffs are of course tidal so great care should be taken with timetables : generally most walls are accessible 3-4 hours either side low tide on the north shore and 3 hours... Continue Reading →
Llwyngwril north shore bouldering . OS SH 53978 BNG 10988 The small village of Llwyngwril lies on the A493 on the coast road from Dolgellau to Tywyn. The drive from Dolgellau is 15 minutes, from Tywyn ten minutes so from somewhere like Aberystwyth just over an hours drive. Boulder problems created by Gary Morgan ,... Continue Reading →
Dysynni Valley has as its main crag the wonderful Bird Rock with a high concentration of good routes mainly on the Bastion. Col Crag on the same side of the valley continues to be a very popular venue with outdoor groups due to easy access, a lovely meadow at its base and easily arranged belays... Continue Reading →
This excellent leaning sheet of rock faces south to the tower at Dolwyddelan from which it can be approached directly. An easier approach is to walk the track from the farm at Pont Rufenig that leads out through the yard, keep left at the first fork then after 1 Km the path ends at a... Continue Reading →
Moel Siabod Craig Ddu Reference: 698539 New routes Craig ddu has three distinct sections, the left or south crag with easy slabs on its extreme left side and a wide grassy gully bounding its right northern end . The central section has the massive upper wall with the great leaning ( unclimbed ) prow in... Continue Reading →
Although generally small and scattered the wonderful rock texture and the setting high on the hills over the Mawddach estuary make this a worthwhile venue. All the boulders are near parking, the longest walk is 5 minutes.
Mid-Wales Climbing 