Guides to bouldering and climbing in mid-Wales
Here are some new routes which have been added since the 2002 guide. Clogwyn yr Oen Red walls This collection of walls and slabs sits on the hillside between Clogwyn yr oen and Bustach and is characterised by compact red rock.There are two good routes here which start below the red slab just left of... Continue Reading →
OS ref 749 447 This long and impressive escarpment sits on the moors above Ffestiniog on the Penmachno road above three small lakes. Although one and half kilomatres long, it has rarely been visited by climbers over the years. In the 1980s Mel Griffiths and Martin Crook did a brief inspection and soloed some of... Continue Reading →
OS REF: 614304 Approach: Leave Llanfair village at sign “ Cwm Bychan 6 miles." At 1.7 miles there is a right turn signed Cwm Bychan. At 0.8 miles there is a gap in the wall on the right and a track leading down to the Fridd farm. Park by the house then walk though the... Continue Reading →
OS: SH 676214 A long escarpment facing south west on the slopes of Clogau above the village of Bontddu on the Mawddach. Good quality high friction rock in an ideal (quiet!) setting. Approach: From Dolgellau take the Barmouth road to Bontddu. At the old hotel turn right and take the steep road up the... Continue Reading →
After some consideration and discussion with local climbers bolting of new routes began in the summer of 2009 at Llwyngwril Allens Sunbeach. The cliffs are of course tidal so great care should be taken with timetables : generally most walls are accessible 3-4 hours either side low tide on the north shore and 3 hours... Continue Reading →
This excellent leaning sheet of rock faces south to the tower at Dolwyddelan from which it can be approached directly. An easier approach is to walk the track from the farm at Pont Rufenig that leads out through the yard, keep left at the first fork then after 1 Km the path ends at a... Continue Reading →
Moel Siabod Craig Ddu Reference: 698539 New routes Craig ddu has three distinct sections, the left or south crag with easy slabs on its extreme left side and a wide grassy gully bounding its right northern end . The central section has the massive upper wall with the great leaning ( unclimbed ) prow in... Continue Reading →
A collection of slabs and walls above Cwm Teigl
Mid-Wales Climbing 