Guides to bouldering and climbing in mid-Wales
This cliff now has 50+ problems of good quality all details are in the Snowdonia South Bouldering Guide 2024 available to buy now. Neanderthal Area The steep smooth walls around the cave have a high-concentration of high-calibre lines, and, as such, may be the hard-climber’s highlight at Fairbourne. Jumping down seems the most logical option... Continue Reading →
A good, steep and isolated buttress sits on the northern banks of the gorge of Ysgor y Gwyn, where the gorge enters the forest above the car park of Cwm Bychan. The straight forward approach from the car park is across the field below the Cwm Bychan farmhouse by the car park. Cross the wooden... Continue Reading →
OS reference: 660 294 These are the tiers rising up the hillside to the south of the Roman Steps and are easily approached from the east. Once through the forest and onto the moorland track the tiers can be seen on the left. Many are well documented in the 2002 guide but there have been... Continue Reading →
OS: 626 272 Access: This lovely slab sits in Cwm Nantcol and is easily accessible. Follow the road up the valley to where a smaller road exits leftwards. Drive up this and park at OS 619270. A short walk along the tracks continuation through an enclosure brings you to the crag. Elevation: 200 meters 1.Tickety-Boo, HVS... Continue Reading →
I'm not George Orwell, just a boulderer about to be videoed on a phone.
Carreg Y Foel Gron: OS 745 427 Upper Tier A good collection of faces ranging from 25m slabs to 12 m leaning cracks and arête. The larger south facing section is visible from the Ffestiniog to Penmachno road. Parking is by LLyn Dubach below the crag. A short stroll brings you to the main slabs. To... Continue Reading →
OS REF: 614304 Approach: Leave Llanfair village at sign “ Cwm Bychan 6 miles." At 1.7 miles there is a right turn signed Cwm Bychan. At 0.8 miles there is a gap in the wall on the right and a track leading down to the Fridd farm. Park by the house then walk though the... Continue Reading →
Great little edit of Martin Crook on "Game of Hones" And Tony Loxton on "a Whim and a Prayer" in the same area
19 routes Mephistopheles, 7a The first bolted line in the main quarry on the white wall capped by a big ledge. Very steep with a tricky section in the blind groove. TT, 2010 Persephone, 6b+ The technical groove next right sharing the LO has some fine moves between good rests with a distinctly long reach for... Continue Reading →
Also known as Allens’s Sunbeach this is the large caravan park just south of LLwyngwril with a long pebble beach leading to a small sea cliff 400 metres south of the park. Access by parking on the beach but be aware the gates lock at 6pm . If staying later park just outside the... Continue Reading →
Mid-Wales Climbing 