Clogwyn Garw, ref: 729448
Located on the south facing hillside above Cwm Teigl and opposite Carreg y Fran (Ffestiniog) this collection of slabs and walls varies in height from 6 meters to 25 meters and is composed of clean sheets of top quality rock. The crags run along the hillside from east to west and are easily visible from the road below.
The Prince wall
This short wall has two good lines which although short are on good steep rock. Park at the large layby on the left below Careg Y fran and walk the 200 meters across slowly rising land to this wall on the south facing hillside.
1. Destroying Angel (E3 6a, 8 metres)
The white streak in the slabby wall is followed direct to a good hold at half height. With microwire protection in the hairline crack a difficult and committing sequence gains the top of the streak.
2. The Prince (E3 5c, 8metres)
Just left is a good flake at half height. Go directly up to this and arrange gear before a very long reach gains the ledge. Finish more easily from here.
The Red Walls
These are the collection of short walls and slabs just below the skyline left of the old quarry. Approach is from the layby after the Carreg Y Fran layby. Head directly across to the area skirting along the toe of the slate outfall until its possible to turn uphill via a small cwm. At the head of the cwm head westwards (left) up the ridge past an old building and the old quarried hole to contour along the hillside to the first outcrop (15 mins)
Wall one : this has a distinct horizontal break and is capped by boulder centre of top.
3. Trail of Tiers (E1 5c, 8 metres)
Start just left of the pedestal at the foot of the slab and go direct on perfect high friction ripples to the break. Pull through and finish up the easy groove.
4. Tiers in Rain (E1 5b, 8 metres)
Take the exquisite thin ramp in the wall just left of Trail of…to the break then go more easily directly up the finishing groove as above.
Wall two: About 100 meters further west along the same contour is another collection of short walls perfect for bouldering. A central section stands out for being 15 meters high and having a wide slot at on third height.
5. Beast is Best (E1 5b,15 metres)
Begin below the slot and take the short slabby wall to the sloping ledge just right of the slot. Step right and take a good crack to the ledge above. Follow the continuation crack above to the final ( well –protected) hard move.
6. Screaming Hab-dabs (E4 6a,15 metres)
Take the short wall as above and go direct into the slot below the clean slabby wall above. Mantle up rightwards onto the left edge of the ledge then step out left onto the immaculate upper wall and go direct to a finger jug. Continue direct on very small edges to a delightful technical finish. Only gear is a side runner in Beast is Best placed from the ledge below …Scary.
Further westwards on the hillside is the main Garw crag. Easiest approach is the layby as for above but simply contour across the moorland directly to the foot of the crag, 20 mins max. The first crag is a detached pinnacle with another just behind it up the hillside, both unclimbed. Next is a gully with a very steep right hand wall and a short clean rib on its left, unclimbed. The main crag continues left from the rib to:
7. Digital Player (VS 4b, 8 metres)
Up the pleasent rib to its top. Walk right and descend the short gulley
8. Apricot Tom (E3 5c,16 metres)
Starts just above of the boulder at the foot of the right hand end of the wall. The initial entry in to the niche above the boulder is straightforward but leaving it to continue up the groove above is more perplexing. Follow the groove with interest to the top ledge.
9. Elin (E5 6b, 16 metres)
The this crack next left leading to the overlap is the most demanding line here. Pull through the overlap direct, long reaches, small edges, good spaced gear.
10. Sounds of the Simians (E4 5c,18 metres)
This is the line up the impressive wall just right of the deep crack . Start up the wall just right of the crack then step rightwards at 2 metres to good finger edges . From here go directly up to the first good gear 4 metres higher. A thin crack rises vertically from here and with a series of layaways and long reaches just right of this easier climbing eventually comes within reach. Sustained and excellent wall climbing.
11. MILF (HVS 5b, 18 metres)
The deep wide crack is steep to start then you can ease your whole body in without difficulty. A classic mountain crack.
12. Caerwyn (E5 6a, 20 m)
The stunning rising traverse from halfway up MILF. A clear line with good gear and some wonderful moves especially passing from Hue and Cry to Nobody move …Finish up Moelwyn Mel totally pumped.
13. No Country for Old Men (E3 6a,13 metres)
Head directly and boldly up the wall two meters left of the MILF to the sloping ledge below the overlap. A good microwire protects the hard moves up and right through the overlap with an easier finish directly above. Easy for the young.
14. Hue and Cry (E4 6a, 16 metres)
A hard, committing line with a fine run-out headwall. There is a slabby quartz boulder 5 metres left of the deep crack. Go directly up the wall behind the boulder past a very good horizontal slot to a rest on a small ledge below the overlap. Step up and arrange very good gear below the overlap before pulling through at its right hand edge. The prize is a solid finger flake just out of reach on the wall above. Compose yourself and continue up the steep compact headwall directly to a final tricky pull onto the top. Exhilarating!
15.Nobody Move, Nobody Get Hurt (E4 6a)
This takes the bulging wall 2 metres left again. Go direct up the initial steep section to a vague scoop below the bulge. Power up the wall above (peg) to gratefully grasp a jug . Follow good holds left wards via a break to its end. Some layaway flakes directly above lead up more easily to the top.
16. Moelwyn Mel (E4 6a,15 m)
Start just below a good ledge next left and go dirct up to this for a rest: the wall steepens above but the holds continue to appear with hood horizontal breaks: continue direct to the last and hardest move!
17. A Reptile Dysfunction (E2 5c,16 metres)
The hand wide crack is reached via the incipient crack leading up to it with some help from a good flake just right.Continue directly up the steep crack to where it clogs up 3 metres below the top. Follow a handrail leftwards for 2 metres before a series of holds leads directly up to the top.It is also possible to finish direct up the crack -safer but scruffy!)
18. Nowhere to run, Nowhere to Hide (E3 5c, 16 metres)
This truly draining fingery wall climb starts 2 metres left and takes the blank looking wall direct to a thin horizontal break. Hand traverse the break to its left end and pop in a good small cam and good wires. Power and a good reach up left are rewarded with a good hold. Poor R.P.s can be placed behind a flake before further direct lunging reaches better holds, gear and an easier finish.
19. Sausage Sitters (E3 5c, 14 metres)
A good fun climb direct up a thin vertical crack 3 metres left of Nowhere … Follow the well protected crack to the overlap. Pull up direct then step right onto a good small ledge.From a spike just above a long reach brings a good hold within grasp. Fight on on improving holds and finish slightly leftwards.
20. Big Muff (E1 5b, 14 metres)
The wall now begins to lose height and some quality but the lines get easier. There is a heather bush 3 metres left. Step up above this and go direct to a left facing niche. Step out right onto the exposed wall then pull straight up to a good vertical slot. Enjoyable moves lead up and rightwards (crossing Sausage Sitters) to a deep horizontal break. Finish direct.
21. Boned (E2 5c, 14 metres)
Joins three horizontal breaks all mid-cam size. Go direct up the quartz-patched wall just right of the Roughas groove. Getting to the third break is tricky.
22. Roughas Hit (HVS 5b, 12 metres)
A bit further along is a small rock pedestal by the wall. Step off this and gain a small ledge via one hard move. Follow the left facing groove above until forced out right to an easy finish.
23. XTUBE (HVS 5a, 12 metres)
The wall and crack just left of above. Pulling through the good crack is strenuous but the holds improve all the way.
24. Wellie, Won’t he? (VS 4c, 10 metres0
Next left is a vague groove. Climb this direct. Surprisingly sustained
Further scope for routes to the left before the wall declines into the hillside…
This stand alone slabby wall reaching 25 metres is about 100 metres further left and again is easily visible from the road. Above the wall an easy angled ledge leads up to a capping overhang forming the top. Gain the foot of the face by descending easily down the gully just west.
25. Slap Dancer (E2 5c, 25 metres)
The excellent crack running up the left side of the face is started just left of the cleft. An awkward move above the cleft gains the crack. Follow this direct to where it starts to thin near the top . Some slappy moves gain the rib left of the final slab which leads to the belay blocks . From here scan down to the central line ….
26. Swsi Face (E5 6b, 25metres)
An outstanding line and among the best in Meirionnydd! Continually interesting with difficulties reaching a crescendo just below the top. Step off the block below the centre of the slab and go directly up to a good pocket and wires at 5 metres. Continue direct past a peg then pull right to a thin seam for some gear. Tiptoe back leftwards to a line of small, shallow scoops which lead dircetly up to a wire placement just below the final slot. Pull up with relief onto the easy angled slab above and belay up in the blocks.
27. Cachu pants (E5 6a, 25 metres)
Although a variation finish to Swsi it has a thrilling and bold finish. Follow Swsi to the good seam on the right and arrange the very good (and the last!) gear. Then continue directly up on small spaced edges for what feels a long way to gain the ramp. Belay up on the blocks on the left.
28. Guardians of the Cambrian Lode (E3 6a, 30 metres)
A thin discontinuous crack on the right side of the face with a distinct crux. Start below the groove on the right side of the face and go directly up until possible to pull onto a good clean ledge on the left. Directly above the ledge some hard moves allow a vertical seam to be reached. Follow this elegantly until a small ledge up and right provides a good foothold. Go directly up from this onto the finishing ramp. Scramble up to the recess below the capping roof to belay. Escape easily off leftwards from the belay or take the challenge of the unclimbed roof!
First Ascent List
2006 April 5 A Reptile dysfunction, Hue and Cry T.Taylor unseconded.
2006 April 6 Sounds of the Simians: T.Taylor unseconded
2006 May 6 Nowhere to run nowhere to hide, Roughas Hit: M .Davies, T.Taylor
Big Muff : T.Taylor, M.Davies
2006 May13 Trail of Tiers, Tiers in Rain: T.Taylor
2006 June 6 Screaming hab-dabs, Beast is Best : T.Taylor
2006 July 22 Swsi face D.Lyon, G.Morgan, M.Davies, T.Taylor
Guardians of the Cambrian Lode, Slap Dancer T.Taylor, M.Davies, G.Morgan
Cachu Pants M.Davies, G.Morgan
2006 August 29 Destroying Angel, The Prince T.Taylor
2006 september 9 Apricot Tom D.Lyon,E.Jones ( both led ) , T.Taylor
Nobody move nobody get hurt T.Taylor, D.Lyon, E.Jones
2007 June 9 MILF D.Lampard, P.Jenkinson
2007 June 9 Sausage Sitters E.Jones , G.Morgan , T.Taylor
2007 june 9 Xtube G. Morgan, T.Taylor
2007 June 9 Boned T. Taylor, G. Morgan, E. Jones
2007 august Moelwyn Mel T.Taylor ( placed gear and took left hand exit up
A Reptile … ) , M. Davies and P.Jenkinson both
led the direct finish.
7.6.2008-06-09 Elin Ioan Doyle , M. Davies
7.6.2008-06-10 Caerwyn Ioan Doyle, T. Taylor : both routes onsighted and named after Ioan’s brother and sister