Guides to bouldering and climbing in mid-Wales
Badychain is the wall visible from Tan y Grisiau main street which faces south across the railway line. A short walk through a tunnel below the track drops you at the foot of the wall where there are now approx 30 sport routes ( several of which are still projects)
Bouldering in the town has always been on the sea walls or in the nearby very tidal Clarach Bay (see the New Central Wales Guidebook 2018 ) In 2018 some hard new boulder problems were added to the north beach of Aberystwyth, mainly the non-tidal very low roof which has Fluffy Sheep in red graffiti... Continue Reading →
Check out this video of Mike Allday making the first ascent of the Dawn Arete in Tanygrisiau.
Great little edit of Martin Crook on "Game of Hones" And Tony Loxton on "a Whim and a Prayer" in the same area
Martin Crook discusses modern bouldering on his 7b power endurance problem, “Pump Station Zebra” in the Moelwyns. He gives some lovely insights in this interview with Steve Peake for Trek and Mountain, and touches on the intangible romance of the sport.
19 routes Mephistopheles, 7a The first bolted line in the main quarry on the white wall capped by a big ledge. Very steep with a tricky section in the blind groove. TT, 2010 Persephone, 6b+ The technical groove next right sharing the LO has some fine moves between good rests with a distinctly long reach for... Continue Reading →
Also known as Allens’s Sunbeach this is the large caravan park just south of LLwyngwril with a long pebble beach leading to a small sea cliff 400 metres south of the park. Access by parking on the beach but be aware the gates lock at 6pm . If staying later park just outside the... Continue Reading →
An extensive collection of cliffs running from the south end of Fairbourne beach to the village of Llwyngwril can be approached either way but is best from the village of Llwyngwril. Park at the layby nearest the village name plate on the north of the village and walk for 200 metres into the village. At... Continue Reading →
OS ref: 84923 28203 The Bala stones sit below the hillsdie at Cregiau LLwyn Gwern on the north side of the Bala to Dolgellau road. The nearest village is Llanuwchlyn. The crag above the boulders is easily spotted from the road and host a number of good routes up to E4. The large boulders can... Continue Reading →
Within a minute, I developed hiraeth for this top dollar excursion, a kind of pump at first sight, which would not, by any stretch Armstrong of the imagination, be easily won.
Mid-Wales Climbing 