An extensive collection of cliffs running from the south end of Fairbourne beach to the village of Llwyngwril can be approached either way but is best from the village of Llwyngwril. Park at the layby nearest the village name plate on the north of the village and walk for 200 metres into the village. At a house called Wendy’s, a small gate opens onto a path leading down to the beach.
The first wall reached is only tiny but is a good warm up while waiting for the tide to recede:
Snap Cackle Pop
Left hand to LO 6a
Direct to LO 6b
Right hand to LO 6a+
TT GM
Continue northwards along the boulder beach to the first “ proper “ route
Flogging a Dead Honkey, 7a
The lovely golden wall provides an entertaining challenge especially gaining the first hold off the beach! TT
The next routes are on the next bay north
Hang em high, 6a
A good warm up leading to the DB LO. TT, GM 2009
Date for a hanging, 6c+
Hard start to gain the good ledge up and left. GM, 2009
Josie wales, 7a
The perplexing very short groove once entered eases above. GM TT both led 2009
Jesse James, 6b
The short slab route leading to the shared DB LO . GM TT both led 2009
Once upon a time in the west, 7a
The first of a good pair of hard steep lines with most of the difficulties on the first third of the wall. TT 2009
Mŵs pius, 7a
A ferocious start laybacking a thin edge leads to easier wall climbing above to the shared DB LO. TT 2010
Outlaw, 6c
Short fingery climbing up the lovely black wall. GM 2009
Pirates of the Cambrian, V+
The easier angled groove lust left to shared DB LO
GM 2009
Guns and poses, 7a+
This last pair of routes is on the white steep wall next left. Start on the right via a layback crack then follow the imaginary ramp up left to the overlap: pull through and gain a handrail level with the LO before stepping left to the DB LO. TT 2010
The dark side of the mŵs, 6c+
Perhaps sparsely bolted ( by some reckoning ) this is a direct line up the scalloped wall to the LO with difficulties increasing with height. TT 2009
Mid-Wales Climbing 
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