I'm not George Orwell, just a boulderer about to be videoed on a phone.
Hylldrem Ap Feddw: Essay by Martin Crook
Carreg y Foel Gron, Ffestiniog: Guide to Traditional Routes
Carreg Y Foel Gron: OS 745 427 Upper Tier A good collection of faces ranging from 25m slabs to 12 m leaning cracks and arête. The larger south facing section is visible from the Ffestiniog to Penmachno road. Parking is by LLyn Dubach below the crag. A short stroll brings you to the main slabs. To... Continue Reading →
Barmouth Quarry: Guide to Sports Routes
OS 616156 This old slate quarry is in the town of Barmouth and was explored and developed by a team of climbers in 1980s including John Sumner and John Codling. It was then thought inaccessible for 30 years due to a misconception over land ownership. Now thanks to the efforts of the BMC this has... Continue Reading →
Chwarel Manod, Ffestiniog: Guide to Sports Routes
This old granite quarry runs along the hillside to the east of Blaenau high street and is approached by a 2 minute walk across open access land. There are two areas, the central quarried walls reach up to 50 meters high and contain a number of well bolted sport routes. The far right hand non quarried... Continue Reading →
Moelwynnion, Ffestiniog: Guide to Traditional routes
Here are some new routes which have been added since the 2002 guide. Clogwyn yr Oen Red walls This collection of walls and slabs sits on the hillside between Clogwyn yr oen and Bustach and is characterised by compact red rock.There are two good routes here which start below the red slab just left of... Continue Reading →
Craig Goch, Ffestiniog: Guide to Traditional Routes
OS ref 749 447 This long and impressive escarpment sits on the moors above Ffestiniog on the Penmachno road above three small lakes. Although one and half kilomatres long, it has rarely been visited by climbers over the years. In the 1980s Mel Griffiths and Martin Crook did a brief inspection and soloed some of... Continue Reading →
Ffridd Farm Crag, Cwm Bychan: Guide to Traditional Routes
OS REF: 614304 Approach: Leave Llanfair village at sign “ Cwm Bychan 6 miles." At 1.7 miles there is a right turn signed Cwm Bychan. At 0.8 miles there is a gap in the wall on the right and a track leading down to the Fridd farm. Park by the house then walk though the... Continue Reading →
Clogau, Bontddu: Guide to Traditional Routes
OS: SH 676214 A long escarpment facing south west on the slopes of Clogau above the village of Bontddu on the Mawddach. Good quality high friction rock in an ideal (quiet!) setting. Approach: From Dolgellau take the Barmouth road to Bontddu. At the old hotel turn right and take the steep road up the... Continue Reading →
New sport venue in Blaenau: Badychain
Badychain is the wall visible from Tan y Grisiau main street which faces south across the railway line. A short walk through a tunnel below the track drops you at the foot of the wall where there are now approx 30 sport routes ( several of which are still projects)
Bouldering in Aberystwyth
Bouldering in the town has always been on the sea walls or in the nearby very tidal Clarach Bay (see the New Central Wales Guidebook 2018 ) In 2018 some hard new boulder problems were added to the north beach of Aberystwyth, mainly the non-tidal very low roof which has Fluffy Sheep in red graffiti... Continue Reading →
Mid-Wales Climbing 