Guides to bouldering and climbing in mid-Wales
An extensive collection of cliffs running from the south end of Fairbourne beach to the village of Llwyngwril can be approached either way but is best from the village of Llwyngwril. Park at the layby nearest the village name plate on the north of the village and walk for 200 metres into the village. At... Continue Reading →
Pennal Quarry (banned at present but Elfyn Jones has been in touch with the farmer) From right to left as you enter the quarry: Van Diemans Land (6c, 12.11.2008) The steep thin wall with technical climbing. TT JD Reflexological (7a+, 20.11.2008) The left edge of this wall is very sustained with a difficult sequence at halfway. TT The... Continue Reading →
OS ref: 84923 28203 The Bala stones sit below the hillsdie at Cregiau LLwyn Gwern on the north side of the Bala to Dolgellau road. The nearest village is Llanuwchlyn. The crag above the boulders is easily spotted from the road and host a number of good routes up to E4. The large boulders can... Continue Reading →
Within a minute, I developed hiraeth for this top dollar excursion, a kind of pump at first sight, which would not, by any stretch Armstrong of the imagination, be easily won.
After some consideration and discussion with local climbers bolting of new routes began in the summer of 2009 at Llwyngwril Allens Sunbeach. The cliffs are of course tidal so great care should be taken with timetables : generally most walls are accessible 3-4 hours either side low tide on the north shore and 3 hours... Continue Reading →
Llwyngwril north shore bouldering . OS SH 53978 BNG 10988 The small village of Llwyngwril lies on the A493 on the coast road from Dolgellau to Tywyn. The drive from Dolgellau is 15 minutes, from Tywyn ten minutes so from somewhere like Aberystwyth just over an hours drive. Boulder problems created by Gary Morgan ,... Continue Reading →
Dysynni Valley has as its main crag the wonderful Bird Rock with a high concentration of good routes mainly on the Bastion. Col Crag on the same side of the valley continues to be a very popular venue with outdoor groups due to easy access, a lovely meadow at its base and easily arranged belays... Continue Reading →
This excellent leaning sheet of rock faces south to the tower at Dolwyddelan from which it can be approached directly. An easier approach is to walk the track from the farm at Pont Rufenig that leads out through the yard, keep left at the first fork then after 1 Km the path ends at a... Continue Reading →
Moel Siabod Craig Ddu Reference: 698539 New routes Craig ddu has three distinct sections, the left or south crag with easy slabs on its extreme left side and a wide grassy gully bounding its right northern end . The central section has the massive upper wall with the great leaning ( unclimbed ) prow in... Continue Reading →
Although generally small and scattered the wonderful rock texture and the setting high on the hills over the Mawddach estuary make this a worthwhile venue. All the boulders are near parking, the longest walk is 5 minutes.
Mid-Wales Climbing 