North Shore, Llwyngwril: Bouldering Guide and Videos

Llwyngwril north shore bouldering . OS  SH 53978  BNG 10988

The small village of Llwyngwril lies on the A493 on the coast road from Dolgellau to Tywyn. The drive from Dolgellau is 15 minutes, from Tywyn ten minutes so from somewhere like Aberystwyth just over an hours drive.

Boulder problems created by Gary Morgan , Martin Crook, Steve Hobbs and TT.

Park in the roadside bay between the village sign and the bridge over the gorge . Stroll down the track ( a sign appears from time to time saying “Keep Out”) and enter the gorge where a well worn path leads down to the shore. Boulder hop the stream after passing below the railway bridge, a tricky and slippy proposal after heavy rain. Once on the shore looking back south The White Stripes wall is visible just the other side of the stream. SDS refers to sit down start. The pebble level changes dramatically with the tides which keeps the interest.

 

White Stripes traverse left to right  6B+

The White Stripes wall is just to the south of the stream as it hits the beach. A short (2-3m high) wall that has some good SDS problems and an excellent traverse at 3 quarters height at 6B+

Left rib SDS 6A

Central pocket sds 6A

Right edge sds 5B

Traverse  6B+ start on the rib on the left and go right to the end 

The wonderful sunlit beach just north of the gorge and the stream starts with:

Groove direct 6A+

Little Matterhorn traverse Left to right 6A+

Check out the video:

Next north along the beach is:

Black wall left to right and top out just left of the corner 6A+

Green Dream 6B sds in the back of the bay , traverse out right to the block then keep feet high to turn the rib.

And here is a video of the problem:

Next north is:

Galley Slave 5C a right to left lip traverse with feet deep in under the roof .

Then comes Lip Sync area 

The Egg 5C  a left to right traverse of the sloping shelf.

Here is a video of Gary Morgan traversing the Egg:

Warm Up 5B a useful L to R traverse before trying its bigger neighbour

Lip Sync 7A  An excellent L to R pumpy traverse with a good crux halfway along on unlikely slopers .Finish high or low , high being somewhat easier . In this picture the pebble beach is unusually high .

Next north ( just past the bolted line of Flogging a Dead Honkey 7a) is –

The Human Wing 7A  a right to left traverse with either a high or low entry .Crux is crossing the final groove .

 

And here is a video of Martin Crook tackling it!