Guides to bouldering and climbing in mid-Wales
OS: 626 272 Access: This lovely slab sits in Cwm Nantcol and is easily accessible. Follow the road up the valley to where a smaller road exits leftwards. Drive up this and park at OS 619270. A short walk along the tracks continuation through an enclosure brings you to the crag. Elevation: 200 meters 1.Tickety-Boo, HVS... Continue Reading →
Carreg Y Foel Gron: OS 745 427 Upper Tier A good collection of faces ranging from 25m slabs to 12 m leaning cracks and arête. The larger south facing section is visible from the Ffestiniog to Penmachno road. Parking is by LLyn Dubach below the crag. A short stroll brings you to the main slabs. To... Continue Reading →
OS: SH 676214 A long escarpment facing south west on the slopes of Clogau above the village of Bontddu on the Mawddach. Good quality high friction rock in an ideal (quiet!) setting. Approach: From Dolgellau take the Barmouth road to Bontddu. At the old hotel turn right and take the steep road up the... Continue Reading →
The new Central Wales guidebook has just been published and contains all you need to know about this previously undocumented area between Machynlleth and Pembroke. The area has seen extensive development of bouldering, sea cliff climbing, bolted quarry routes and long pitches on remote mountain crags. It is incredibly well researched and documented with a... Continue Reading →
Although generally small and scattered the wonderful rock texture and the setting high on the hills over the Mawddach estuary make this a worthwhile venue. All the boulders are near parking, the longest walk is 5 minutes.
The campsite at Cae Du sits above a good small cliff that provides excellent bouldering, some lead routes and plenty of in-situ stakes for arranging top roping. The rock is a compact , water- washed boulder shale that tests slap and hold abilities . Tidal but accessible 10 hours of the 12 hour cycle .... Continue Reading →
Tall Tales, in a recently developed boulder field at Cadair Idris, from Terry Taylor on Vimeo.
Check out Mike Allday's concise and informative guide to bouldering in Barmouth_quarry May 23 2016 : Mike has just added sds to Black Mamba in Barmouth quarry at V10 ( Font 7c+)
