Guides to bouldering and climbing in mid-Wales
OS REF: 614304 Approach: Leave Llanfair village at sign “ Cwm Bychan 6 miles." At 1.7 miles there is a right turn signed Cwm Bychan. At 0.8 miles there is a gap in the wall on the right and a track leading down to the Fridd farm. Park by the house then walk though the... Continue Reading →
OS: SH 676214 A long escarpment facing south west on the slopes of Clogau above the village of Bontddu on the Mawddach. Good quality high friction rock in an ideal (quiet!) setting. Approach: From Dolgellau take the Barmouth road to Bontddu. At the old hotel turn right and take the steep road up the... Continue Reading →
Badychain is the wall visible from Tan y Grisiau main street which faces south across the railway line. A short walk through a tunnel below the track drops you at the foot of the wall where there are now approx 30 sport routes ( several of which are still projects)
Bouldering in the town has always been on the sea walls or in the nearby very tidal Clarach Bay (see the New Central Wales Guidebook 2018 ) In 2018 some hard new boulder problems were added to the north beach of Aberystwyth, mainly the non-tidal very low roof which has Fluffy Sheep in red graffiti... Continue Reading →
Check out this video of Mike Allday making the first ascent of the Dawn Arete in Tanygrisiau.
Great little edit of Martin Crook on "Game of Hones" And Tony Loxton on "a Whim and a Prayer" in the same area
The new Central Wales guidebook has just been published and contains all you need to know about this previously undocumented area between Machynlleth and Pembroke. The area has seen extensive development of bouldering, sea cliff climbing, bolted quarry routes and long pitches on remote mountain crags. It is incredibly well researched and documented with a... Continue Reading →
Martin Crook discusses modern bouldering on his 7b power endurance problem, “Pump Station Zebra” in the Moelwyns. He gives some lovely insights in this interview with Steve Peake for Trek and Mountain, and touches on the intangible romance of the sport.
19 routes Mephistopheles, 7a The first bolted line in the main quarry on the white wall capped by a big ledge. Very steep with a tricky section in the blind groove. TT, 2010 Persephone, 6b+ The technical groove next right sharing the LO has some fine moves between good rests with a distinctly long reach for... Continue Reading →
Also known as Allens’s Sunbeach this is the large caravan park just south of LLwyngwril with a long pebble beach leading to a small sea cliff 400 metres south of the park. Access by parking on the beach but be aware the gates lock at 6pm . If staying later park just outside the... Continue Reading →
Mid-Wales Climbing 