Newgale beach, Pembrokeshire: Bouldering Guide

This tidal venue offers great bouldering on clean, slopey rock. Care should be taken in some of the caves with friable holds on rotten bands; generally these are obvious to the eye. The landings are generally quite friendly but pebble shift can expose bare rock landings, a mat is definitely recommended. The pebble levels do shift a lot (up to a metre and a half) and each visit to the crag will feel different. The grades given are at best approximate, and on any given occasion the starting position of a problem will vary greatly. Some problems can be climbed even when raining.


This cave is host to the largest concentration of quality problems and varied moves. Bounded on the left by the L.O. (Little Overhanging) Wall. Interest on the Back Wall and potential on the right hand B.O. (Big Overhanging) Wall.


Newgale is mentioned in the Pembrokeshire climbing guide as an afterthought. It has long been used as a bouldering venue but as yet nothing specific has been documented until now. Many problems have probably been climbed before but not named or graded; maybe there is no need? It’s done now!

For the complete guide check out:

Newgale bouldering PDF guide

This short video includes a problem at Newgale, and several at Holyhead mountain. it is not clear in which cave Gale Force 7b sits but we are enquiring

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Blog at

Up ↑

%d bloggers like this: