Guides to bouldering and climbing in mid-Wales
OS REF: 614304 Approach: Leave Llanfair village at sign “ Cwm Bychan 6 miles." At 1.7 miles there is a right turn signed Cwm Bychan. At 0.8 miles there is a gap in the wall on the right and a track leading down to the Fridd farm. Park by the house then walk though the... Continue Reading →
Great little edit of Martin Crook on "Game of Hones" And Tony Loxton on "a Whim and a Prayer" in the same area
Also known as Allens’s Sunbeach this is the large caravan park just south of LLwyngwril with a long pebble beach leading to a small sea cliff 400 metres south of the park. Access by parking on the beach but be aware the gates lock at 6pm . If staying later park just outside the... Continue Reading →
More sea washed stone that is powerful and slappy. By Llwyngwril in south Gwynedd there are many problems here from the dyamically small to the high ball that can be led with gear ...and many have .Bolted routes have also appeared here at around 10 metres or so on resin rings
The campsite at Cae Du sits above a good small cliff that provides excellent bouldering, some lead routes and plenty of in-situ stakes for arranging top roping. The rock is a compact , water- washed boulder shale that tests slap and hold abilities . Tidal but accessible 10 hours of the 12 hour cycle .... Continue Reading →
O.S. ref. 797893 Access: From the A487(T) Machynlleth to Aberystwyth road, turn off at Talybont and follow the mountain road, signposted Nant y Moch to the reservoir. Follow the road round the reservoir to the dam, then uphill; just after a cattle-grid turn left and follow another minor road towards Maesnant (O.S. ref 774881). Park... Continue Reading →
The Black Rhino Boulder : Martin Crook on " No Bull so Fierce " from Terry Taylor on Vimeo. And it continues here...
Check out Mike Allday's concise and informative guide to bouldering in Barmouth_quarry May 23 2016 : Mike has just added sds to Black Mamba in Barmouth quarry at V10 ( Font 7c+)
Martin Crook tackling the Kingspan 6C in Trawsfynydd Badlands July 2017, from Terry Taylor on Vimeo.
Steve Hobbs wrote another great guide to the Torrent Walk Gorge in Dolgellau.
Mid-Wales Climbing 