MIKE ALLDAY on his route at Barmouth quarry Hollywood PLayboy7c+
BARMOUTH quarry : topo
South facing , 5 mins walk from road , technical lines up to 33 meters high
Friog: already in the guide : resin stapled wall facing east with 7 bolted lines to 6c+ and 2 further lines up on the walls of the Blue LAke
SUNBEACH AT LLWYNGWRIL
Sunbeach North: 13 bolted lines to 7a+ : up to 10 metres high on generally good compact rock with resin bolts and double lower offs ...don't be out off by the single boilt to a single bolt lower off on the first short cliff as you walk north from llwyngwril ...this is not typical at all !
Sunbeach south: 11 bolted lines , up 7b: generally ongood rock : the 7a+ is on the 10 metres high leaning black wall in the bay of the arch, Black Arabesque is a delight in fierce fingery sustained climbing .
BAy one has an open project to the double bolt lower offs at the top of Entropy ( 6b+/6c)
Abergynolwyn : Bryneglwys quarry has no new lines : still only 3 in the big hole in the ground .
Dinas Mawddy ( Minllyn ) quarry : 5 bolted lines : the first two are on the red wall and will benefit from rebolting ( by end 2012): both are short and around 6a/6b and top out: The 25 metre high slab has three good routes . The latest is the shortest and is on the left side of the slab at 7a+. The central long line is Entering the Neutral Zone at 7a/7a+ with a wicked start followed by sustained thin rockovers on good rock . the original line is next right Zone of Totality at 6c. DBLO at the top
Clarach : The main wall on the north side of the bay has been rebolted with resin bolts and two new double bolt lower offs . Care needed with the rock as usual but looks a lot more attractive now .
Pennal Quarry : just developed inthe summer of 2009 only to be told by the landowner that no furtehr climbing is possibe until access can be sorted : a brief overview is ---> on the right as you enter the gates of the quarry 6c up slab , 7a+ up left arete, then comes a 6b+ and a 6a to shared lower off, next left is a 7a+ and 6c to shared lower off , then on the pillar two 6bs to LO. Finally Goi Ashmore added a superb slate arete " Aretenophobia " 7b+ up the right edge of the gig leaning west facing wall at the head of the quarry , the only route to have permanent resin staples .: one project remains on the left which is only partially bolted at present . Once access is arranged this could be a very good sport climbing venue .
Moel Y gest quarry in TREMADOG
19 bolted lines up to 25 meters .
Signs have apeared saying no climbing but on one , including the quarry owners , knows who has placed them and on what authority so climb on .
TOPO of far right slabs