linkCregennan lake, Arthog near Dolgellau
new bouldering miniguide in prep august 2012
Pared Cefn Y hir is the steep hillside to the north of Cregennan lake and has a daunting west facing cliff : this was finally breached this year by James Dexter withan E3 6a through the less steep section right of the main overhangs : James has also topropped the crack running direct through the overhangs and reckons it hard E5 6b.
Just below the main crag is a wonderful 7 m shield of clean rock , the Pumice Stone which has 3 lines at present , the hard central line being the most challanging at E3 6a .
Beside the carpark by the lake is a collection of boulders which have yielded some good problems ( details here
Cregennan lake pdf :
From the lake car park drive westwards past Trawstir , through the gate and continuing on the high road to LLwyngwril , will bring you to another collection of boulders which is north of Cwm Pen LLydan ( in the guidebook ) . Just before the road drops steeply through an S bend ther is a layby on the right which has been quarried . Park here and go direct up the hill northwards to find a gully running east west : on the south wall is a very good small edge which is V4 traversing right to left then pulling through the prow: also several directs through the edge which are slightly easier :
The north side of the gully has another short steep face at V2 ( sitting start ) with a small overlap to finish.
The best face is another minutes walk directly north again to a north facing steep little slab " Seamile Dementia " E2 6a or V4 , ( unprotectable ) on tiny smears .
A minutes away on the west slopes of this hil is a good orange block The " Venus Stone " first climbed when Venus crossed in front of the sun ion 2004 .From left to right the lines are E2 6a , E1 5b/c , E1 5b/c and Severe so that would be V3, V1 and V1 : just down and west gain are taller slabbier walls that have several solos , none harder than 5b.
Next area is just west of here . Continue along the same road down the S bend to a layby on the left opposite a good track that leads to 3 old buildings ( Daildef on map ). Take the track into a shallow vale with a small flake boulder on its south face , V5 left edge , V0 right edge . 20 metres directly west is a tall face behind a tree " The Dark of the Sun " E2 5c.
A few metres north of the flake boulder are two menhir type outcrops : the left has an unclimbed direct line which looks hard but completed easier lines either side .
The right outcrop has a good leaning central edge " Pocket Arete " V1 .