midwalesclimbing meirionnydd - midwalesclimbing
newgale beach
allens sunbeach
llwyngwril near Tywyn
moel siabod
cae du near Tywyn

one of the best that midwales has to offer : between Tywyn and LLwyngwril , sea washed stone that demands lots of slapping!

Bouldering Cae Du



Short video July 2017 Dave Lyon on the initial section Back to Black in the rain  here

Another sea coast gem tucked away in south Meirionnydd is the sea cliff below the farm and small camping site of Cae Du on the Llwyngwril –Tywyn road. Sea washed rock , clean , solid and sunlit is accessible 5 hours either side of low tide and the car park in the camping site at the top of the cliff is only 500 metres away ( though costs £1.50 to park ).

A favorite with outdoor centres who have left many belay spikes at the cliff top the main feature is the scope for a long days bouldering. Visited by generations of climbers  ( since the 1950s army incursions ) the rocks bear no trace as the sea ‘s daily routine wash takes away the chalk and friction marks left by rubber soles . It always appears fresh. One of the odd things about a sea cliff bouldering venue is the alerations in difficulty and access depending on the level of the pebble beach . This is particulary true of sit starts . As the cliffs are up to 12 metres high there are some high ball routes but most finish quickly and give easy descents.
New problem south section:

in between probs 24 and 25 the v6 traverse.Start on pinch, move upward via gaston into triangular pocket. then up into the roof and continue too traverse leftwards finish round corner. V6. Nick Cunningham .


 August 2009 Tim Banton on his new V7 left hand start to Cae du crack

Cae du crack left hand : tim banton 's new V7



The areas are divided into two far north boulders by the washroom beach , a mid area solitary boulder  and the main area next south .

FAR NORTH : ( washroom boulders )

The mushroom shaped black topped collection of large boulders has several good problems some direct the others pumpy traverses on the rounded top .Worth a visit at low tide on the way to the main area .

Tucked away below the pebble cliff is a short sharp boulder with well defined problems : see topo ( “far north “)

Solitary boulder : a rounded 2 m high fun boulder with an unclimbed NE rib.






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