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cae du near Tywyn
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link to the pdf on the bouldering page


O.S. ref. 797893

Access: From the A487(T) Machynlleth to Aberystwyth road, turn off at Talybont and follow the mountain road, signposted Nant y Moch to the reservoir. Follow the road round the reservoir to the dam, then uphill; just after a cattle-grid turn left and follow another minor road towards Maesnant (O.S. ref 774881). Park here, taking care not to block the gates (30 min). It is also possible to reach this point from Ponterwyd on the A44(T).

 

 

 

Follow the rough track for a mile, then just after crossing a stream turn right into another valley, heading past a small plantation of conifers. Follow the right bank of Afon Hengwm for a mile, all the way to a ruined farm of Hengwmannedd and the bouldering area just behind it (O.S. ref 797893). The second section can be a rather moist walking, wellies might be better in wetter periods even though the rocks will be dry (40 min

 

A.    Hengwmannedd Blocks

 

1.   Layback Arete. 5b. Smear moves on left-hand side of arête, starting off the stone wall. Pulling round to the slab on right, at any time, brings grade down. 2.      Handscoop. 5c. Grip curved scoop & smear to swing up right past hollow flake to a good foothold. The left-hand finish a touch harder 5c/6a?

 

3.   " Splash"  Font 6A/ Wall to the right of the crack. A bit dirty at present . Simon HIlls 2009

 

4.   Yr Hollt. 5b. Jam & layback moves. Lay-backing right-hand side 5c/6a(both sit down starts)

5.   Unclimbed. Wall to the left of the crack. Again probably be about 6a/b grade.

6.   Ffrithiant. 5b/c. Rib above block, moving left to crack. Vegetated cracks on the right could be cleaned to provide alternative finish.

7.   Gwerin Crack. 4b. Ascend the crack- stylish arm bars & foot-locks or thrutchy grovelling.

 

8.   Jugs Mawr. 3a? easy way up or down

 

9.   Cefn Hawdd. 3a? easy-way down?

 

10.  Undercut Flake. 5b. Long reach. Don’t use detached flake to the left.

 

11.  Rib & Slab. 4a/b.

 

12.  Gwergys. 5b. The obvious horizontal crack from right to left. Slightly harder the other way.

13.  Dde. 4c. A bit harder if the horizontal crack is not used.

 

14.  Canol. 5a. Harder if crack not used.

 

15.  Chwith. 4a/b. Can be made harder

 

16.  Y Grit. 5a. Go up onto ramp, then straight up; or, a left or right finish.

 

17.  Ramp-tramp. 4c. Follow ramp up rightwards with hands at crack level or below only. Use of any handholds 4a. No use of crack at all or handholds above crack 5a.

 

18.  Un Hawdd. Climb up on weird knobbly rock-easy.

 

19.  Hawdd Dau. Another easy one, close to the above, on knobbly rock.

 

20.  Route 1. *grade? – this is 5b – can’t quite remember, may be other way round with the route below?

 

21.  Route 2. *grade? – this is 5b – can’t remember if this is confused with the one above?

 

22.  Route 3. *grade? – I think about 5a/b?

 


B. Llech Rhaeadr

 

 

 

23.  Gorwedd. 3c/4a. Layback the left-hand side of the central crack, difficulties depend on which holds are used.

 

24.  Rhaeadr. 4a/b. A pleasant off-width or nasty thrutch up the central crack-try it facing both ways!

 

25.  Llech Ganol. 4a. A straightforward slab, don’t use the cracks on either side.

 

26.  Hollt Byr. 4b. The right-hand crack-harder than it looks.

 

 

 

 

C. Pen Bach Llech

 

 

 

27.  Hollt Fawr. 5c. Sit down start to obvious diagonal crack (Lto R) leading to flakes at the top. A standing start makes it slightly easier; still strenuous though.

 

27 A: "Splat"   Font 6B/C     To the right of 27 is a wall and blunt arete.Climb this on its left hand side not using the crack of 27. Side pulls on both the face and the arete lead to a slap for a good edge at 3/4 height : a hard move then leads to a goodish edge then a final smeary slap leads to an easier but scary rock over to finish .   S.HIlls   " a Fantastic problem "  2009

 

28.  Flake Away. 5a. Short route on right, possible leftward extension on rounded edge.

29.  Graddau. 4a. Slab on the left to the top of pinnacle.

 

30.  Llech. 4b. Slab and rib on right. Top still very lichenous, should become easier.

 

31.  "Splish"  Font 6A      Fine clean-cut arête, about 6 meters  in height, : climb the left hand side of the arete via layaways on the arete and crimps on the face , stepping right at 3/4 height to finish up the scoop, scary top out . Highball Font 6A.    Simon HIlls 2009.

       "Splosh ":  Font 6b    the right hand side via slaps , sidepulls and heel hooks leading to a harrowing move at 3/4 height into the scoop.Simon HIlls 2009 "Brilliant , compelling line "

 

   D. Creigiau Uchaf  

 

 

33.  Sefyll. 5b. Clean cut groove. Thumb sprag move to step into base of groove. Use of holds wide out on left or right to step up brings grade down to about 5a.

 

34.  Llech Rhydd. 3b. Slabby, can be made harder by missing out holds.

 

35.  Peidio Disgyn. 5b. The obvious diagonal cleft ascended in a ‘bastard layback’ fashion. What grade for off-width style? Don’t fall off!

 

  The recent routes in 2009 from simon hills were climbed ground up without any cleaning or pre-inspection above a mat.( Simon noted the new route names after the wet walk in ! )

 

All the other problems have been climbed from the ground up, with no top-rope inspection or brushing. Also no mat used – which helps to explain why a number of harder problems not tackled. This is not the place to pick up a twisted/broken ankle (or worse!) climbing on your own, as the two mile walk out would be horrendous

MANY THANKS TO IWAN ARFON JONES for all the original topos and his first ascent details






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