North Wales Bouldering
Ground up Productions
By Simon Panton August 2017
For anyone interested in bouldering in and around North Wales this is the ultimate guide to the huge variety and diversity of rock out there .This is an excellent guide full of inspirational action shots taken throughout the seasons.Divided into seven main areas it covers from Anglesey across to Ruthin and Devils gorge and from the LLyn Peninsula across to Blaenau-FFestiniog and down as far as Trawsfynydd . It is an astonishing 668 pages of packed data with clear access maps and detailed photo topos of all the main blocks and edges .
Each section has a written detailed description to complement the access maps and information on conditions on the rock with a note re any possible access issues . And remarkably almost all the problems have a written description instead of just lines on a topo.With nearly 4000 problems this is a huge amount of writing and research and Simon’s huge commitment to this is clear . Just browsing through the pages , exploring an area via the maps , action shots , photo topos , first ascenionist data with dates and then the pleasure of the prose with grades and star system makes you feel like you’ve been there . An additional feature is an exclamation mark to indicate a bit of scariness due to the deck quality or distance .
Given the detail and accuracy of the descriptions it is clear Simon has either done the problem or at the very least had first hand accounts from those who have , thereby adding a further dimension to the writing .It is a big book , some would say encyclopaedic , but what a delight to have a copy and wander through its pages picking out the next venue or planning the next holiday . For any climbers living in North Wales being without a copy is like cycling down a hill without a bike .. you just land hard on your arse . For foreign visitors again I highly recommend this guide as it will give you many years of pleasure in a wonderful landscape and ,although it is entirely in English, the maps , action photos and topos speak for themselves .
A note on grades : as Simon points out in his introduction the grade is how it feels to you and there are no absolutes , so plenty of opportunity for debate and discussion but no basis for argument . The disclaimer is that the grades may be inaccurate on some of the most recent problems ( of which there has been a huge development ) but over time now that the book is here a consensus opinion will evolve . The advice is just focus on the quality . I cannot agree more .
It is available to buy now at £36.95 , a small price to pay for a book that you will get massive use out of for a very long time .
MARCH 2018 UPDATE
New problems continue to be added in the boulder lands between Blaenau and Dolgellau: Martin Crook first ascent Pump Station Zebra 7A+ in the Moelwyn 2018
More problems added in the Moelwyn boulder fields over JAnuary and February 2018 mainly Tony Loxton , MArtin Crook and Terry Taylor
New areas opned up in the Rhinog also
Another new boulder zone by LLanuchlyn and another near Bala
The wild area between Blaenau and Bala continues to yield excellent boulder problems in March 2018
Another new 7A+ in Midwales July 9 2017 see video here Game of Hones 7A+
Tony Loxton repeating another new Midwales boulder problem July 10 2017
New videos added 1.7.2017 on the bouldering page
Another new problem on a new boulder 5 july here
LLWYNGWRIL SEA CLIFFS HAVE BEEN EXPLORED MORE EXTENSIVELY IN November 2016 AMD MANY NEW BOULDER PROBLEMS ADDED alongside two excellent 7A traverses
follow the LLwyngwril link above for some new videos of the beach bouldering . Topo now added November 6 2016 on the LLwyngwril page link above
2016: THE BALA BOULDER DRAFT TOPO SPRING 2016 . Click on the Bala link above for topo and several video links to Mike on his new 8A Black Sapphire
Autumn 2017: Martin Crook blazing a new trail on a Rhinog stone August 2017: Transmitting Turbo 7A
2015 AUGUST 7 NEW : TOPO GUIDE TO CRAIG GOCH ON THE MIGNEINT ABOVE LLAN FFESTINIOG : SEE MOELWYNNION SECTION
2015 TOPOS FOR BLAENAU FFESTINIOG AND SUNBEACH AT LLWYNGWRIL AT SPORT ROUTES LINK ABOVE
Mike has a short video of his 8a route in The Moelwyn
The new guide for Lochtyn sea cliffs just south of Aberystwyth will appear in the new ELENYDD guide
Plynlimon ; newly developed crag 2012 will appear in the NEW ELENYDD guide
Craig y Stimau at Dolwyddelan behind the Castle by Moel Siabod 2012
Calum Muskett and Pete Robbins have been back to Craig Istimau on the sunny side of Siabod above the LLedr valley on April 14. Pete flashed the new Castle Wall at E7 6c and also succeeded on the very thin wall left of the central groove at E5 6c.Then CAlum added his CAl-Queda at E6 6a , the thin and committing line just right of Regression to The Mean . The great prow on Craig DDu remains unclimbed but probably not for long now that this strong team are active on the mountain .Small topo here
New Guidebooks : Two new guides in preparation . One is a Moelwyn/Moel Siabod and the second is a Midwales new routes guide. Both will include many new crags as well as new routes on previously documented crags .
Photographs of crags are needed so we can update the photo topos: any pics of the Moelwyn/Siabod crags would be really helpful .The new midwales guidebook needs photos of many crags : anyone who feels they can help I can send them the list of crags that to date have photos and those that need photos ....any help much appreciated .
It may be a couple of more years before publication so planty of time for feedback on existing crags , routes etc
Cregennan lake video : Mike Allday on Luminox V7minimum
Update MARCH 2015 new topos for CAE DU May 2015.
New RHINOGAU crag PDF
Newgale , Aberystwyth, Clarach and Borth bouldering :
Cregennan lake pdf :
Update sports routes link
Moel Y Gest Quarry Tremadog.Copy and paste the following for the far right slabs